A few months ago, a very cheap 3D printer appeared on Monoprice. My curiosity about this printer is worth more than 200 dollars, so I chose one of them. Monoprice MP Select Mini is an excellent 3D printer. This is the perfect printer for 13-year-old children who may be going through the "3D printing stage". This is a great printer and can print better printers. Despite the presence of Makerbot, this printer indicates that the 3D printing industry has not collapsed and heralds the arrival of the era of consumer 3D printers.
MP Select Mini is not Monoprice's only 3D printer. The printer I bought is just a "good" printer in the "good-better-best" series. Since I reviewed the MP Select Mini, Monoprice has launched their top product-the Maker Ultimate 3D printer. Monoprice asked me if I would like to take a look at this product, and I am very happy to agree.
After a week of aging, I can say with certainty that you will not waste money on this $700 3D printer. It is not an entry-level printer-it will last a long time. 2016 is the beginning of the era of consumer 3D printers, and Monoprice Maker Ultimate is more than just a proof.
Monoprice Maker Ultimate is a rebranding of Marriott Copier 6, and should be treated as an identical printer. Monoprice is priced at US$700 and Wanhao is priced at US$800, but Monoprice does not equip the side and top of the printer with acrylic panels. Except for that small difference, you are looking at the same printer. Whether adding an acrylic shell panel is worth the $100 increase depends on the user. Anyone who can use a laser cutting machine can easily replace these panels, and I am eagerly looking forward to the appearance of these .DXF files on the Internet soon.
This is a rebranding of Marriott printers, which is a selling point. Wanhao has quite a lot of followers because of their i3 version, and with it comes the availability of spare parts. I regret the review of the low-end Monoprice printer MP Select Mini that Monoprice does not sell any spare parts and cannot find the original manufacturer's distributor in the United States. At the very least, you can get Monoprice Maker Ultimate parts from the US distributor of Marriott printers. This printer is also slightly more standardized than the MP Select Mini manufactured at a price, and replacement nozzles and hot ends can be purchased through ordinary online retailers.
Let us solve one thing now. This is an Ultimaker clone. The software menu of the OLED control panel is exactly the menu you can find on Ultimaker. The mechanical settings of the X-axis and Y-axis are almost similar to Ultimaker, except that there are two crossbars on the bracket instead of one. The Z axis is exactly the same, except that the two "corner" beds are adjusted at the back instead of the front. The only significant difference between Monoprice Maker Ultimate and Ultimaker is the extruder on the XY carriage. Ultimaker uses the Bowden setup, while Monoprice stacks the stepper on the carriage and directly drives the extruder. That's it. This is the only difference. The extruder on the cart, the maximum speed of this printer is theoretically lower than that of Ultimaker, but I did not find any problems.
The casing of this printer is very sturdy. The front, top, and sides of the printer are all single-piece aluminum plates. The sides are welded to this board, and all components are connected to this very strong and very strong frame. The powder-coated finish will hold up quite well. This printer pays great attention to quality, and this design choice continues to the 1/4 inch thick aluminum build plate. Compared to my 6-inch square Printrbot Metal Simple, this aluminum build plate heats up quickly, and all electrical connections are firmly crimped and covered with heat shrink tubing.
Although I only use this printer for about 130 hours a week or so, I have been using it all the time, but each 3D printer review time is much longer than I see in other popular stores. It is inaccurate to say that a week or so or the running time is sufficient to correctly evaluate the printer. For this, I need a few months of printing time, I need the nozzles to be clogged, and some bearings will break if I'm lucky. However, I pushed the matter hard, grinding some ABS in the extruder, and leaving some beautiful deep marks on the replaceable build surface. My impression is that this is a very robust 3D printer. It can handle daily use in the workshop and daily abuse in the classroom. It's durable and I don't think this printer will stop using it anytime soon.
Specifications-given in the manual, not in the online specification sheet-listed the build volume as 200 x 200 x 175 mm. The position accuracy of the X-axis and Y-axis is 12.5 microns, and the position accuracy of the Z-axis is 5 microns. This is a printer designed for 1.75 mm filaments, equipped with a 0.4 mm nozzle. The printing speed is 1-300mm/s, and the traveling speed is 1-350mm/s. The printer weighs thirty pounds.
During the test, I only used the inventory settings on the printer (which can be changed via the OLED display) and Cura's recommended settings. These settings are sufficient to produce high-quality prints, although I did experience stringing problems when I retracted it. This problem can be easily solved by slightly adjusting the retraction setting in the microtome and setting the temperature lower.
Over the years, the highest quality prints always seemed to come from Ultimaker, and since this printer is actually a copy of Ultimaker, I had certain expectations for the test. I was not disappointed.
I believe that a machine that only moves the bed in the Z direction will always produce higher quality prints. Very well-tuned i3-style printers are an exception to this rule, but Monoprice Maker Ultimate is exactly what I expected in this regard: the quality when printing with a very small layer height is very high.
Unlike the $200 Monoprice MP Select Mini, there is no Z belt to speak of. The trapezoidal Z-axis screw not only moves the bed down to the desired position, but the Ultimaker-style Cartesian arrangement has almost no tilt.
But this does not mean that the printer is not malfunctioning. An obvious oversight can be found in the fan used to blow air onto the newly extruded plastic. This kind of fan has a problem: it does not blow air onto the plastic that has just been extruded. Instead, it will blow a few centimeters to the right of the print.
The best example I can think of to prove that the filament cooling problem is overhang. The Benchy tug that I printed provides enough evidence that overhang will be a problem with this printer. The part cooling fan duct can be easily removed, and once I take down this machine a little more, I will start to design a better low-profile duct to bring the air closer to the nozzle.
Except for the overhang problem, this is indeed a printer with excellent build quality. The printed dimensions of all samples are accurate, and the bow of the 3D Benchy is one of the best I have ever seen, and even the name on the back of this small tug is clear and easy to read. Apart from the retraction problem-an adjustment function that can be fixed with the correct settings-I can easily see the potential of this printer to produce Ultimaker quality printing.
As far as the bed is concerned, it is acceptable, although the information available on the build surface is limited. The bed is made of aluminum and heated by a 24V PCB. It reaches temperature very quickly. This printer comes with a "sticker paper", the only data about the actual condition of this build surface comes from the Marriott product description: it is "Marriott sticker". This is not a lot of information, but it seems to be a perfectly acceptable build surface. ABS, PLA, PETG and Ninjaflex can be glued to the bed, and the printing is easy to remove.
I believe that PEI builds the surface. This is the build surface of the future, and I will eventually tap the build surface on this printer. This is not to hit the "adhesive paper" that comes with this printer-this is acceptable, even if it is painful to remove. However, my suggestion is to ignore the alternate build sheet that comes with this printer and spend $16 on the PEI sheet.
In my review of Monoprice MP Select Mini, I pointed out that Monoprice doesn't know what they are selling. In that particular case, this is not a bad thing-the printer is better than their specification sheet says. It can be printed at a layer height much lower than the specified 100 microns, and the product copy does not mention the ARM controller board. MP Select Mini is underestimated, and this can only be the result of two mutually exclusive facts. Monoprice either wants to sell their cheapest printer at a low price to push potential buyers to the next best printer in their lineup, or Monoprice does not have the institutional knowledge required to properly evaluate or write a copy of the 3D printer.
Now, with two data points, which truth is more likely to be clearer.
The online specification sheet for this printer shows that the printing speed of the Monoprice Maker Ultimate printer is 150 mm/sec. This is fast, but comparable to the carefully adjusted Ultimaker. However, the specifications for this printer found in the product manual list the maximum printing speed as 300 mm/sec and the maximum travel speed as 350 mm/sec. This is a bit high.
Just for testing, I tried to print at 300mm/sec. At this speed, the layer height is 0.1 mm, and the nozzle sprays plastic at a speed of 12 mm³/sec. For a 12V heater, the amount of plastic per second is too much, but the 24V hot end performs admirably-of course, until the extruder starts to peel off the filament. No matter what the specification sheet says, you cannot push the plastic out of the nozzle so quickly. It may work at a lower layer height, but this brings us another problem of high printing and moving speed: acceleration.
Set the maximum speed of printing and movement to 300 mm/sec, and the acceleration to 800 mm/sec², and the printer may never reach these speeds. With these stroke settings, the print head will only reach a speed of 300 mm/sec after approximately 50 mm. If you are building a printer with a one-meter long build plate (more on that later), fast movement and printing speed would be great, but if you plug some numbers into [Prusa]’s handy acceleration calculator, you’ll find You need to accelerate anyway to reach these driving speeds.
I don't know why the default acceleration of this machine is 800mm/sec² when it leaves the factory. The default acceleration of Marlin firmware is 3000 mm/s², and every RepRap I've seen seems to be able to do this. However, the default acceleration can be changed through the on-screen menu. After the change, the printer performance is very good.
Fast driving and low acceleration mean that the specifications are too ambitious at best, and slightly deceptive at worst. Of course, ambition or deception is not important, because all of these can be solved by making some changes to the settings. I recommend setting the acceleration to 2000-3000 mm/sec² (configurable through the OLED menu), and setting the slicer to about 100 mm/sec. For this printer, this is a good choice.
Twenty-four volts. finally. From the early days of RepRap, printers have considered 12 volts. The hot end is designed to be 12V. The heated build plate is designed to be 12V. Slowly, this has been changing, and I recommend that anyone who wants to build their own printer choose 24V. V=IR, higher voltage means that the hot end reaches temperature faster. You can push the filament through the nozzle faster. Commercial printers are developing slowly. Not this printer, it is 24V. The heating bed heats up rapidly, and what is impressive is that it heats a quarter of an inch of aluminum plate.
Unscrew the four screws at the bottom of the machine, and the internal organs are exposed. Below the printer, you will find the power supply, controller board and OLED/knob/SD card board.
The controller board is based on ATmega2560, but not on any board that I can easily identify. It does use an integrated stepper driver, and if I want to delve into the board to add a housing heater, it does seem that there are some alternate connections available. No, it is not an ARM board with fancy acceleration, but that is the future, this is the current 3D printer.
As far as I know, the OLED display/interface is exactly the same as Ultimaker. There is an option to set the motor current, exactly the same as the bed leveling wizard. For anyone who has used Ultimaker, the interface of this printer will be very familiar.
In my email inbox today, almost exactly five years ago, I was holding an invoice for Lulzbot order #000032. With this as proof, I have witnessed the development of this industry with my own eyes, and I am very confident in the ability of open hardware.
Today, Lulzbot shines, TAZ 6 is still completely open source, and Lulzbot is a perfect example of what you can do with open hardware. The RepRap project and Lulzbot in particular subverted the entire industry, forced innovation, and greatly expanded the thinking share of a technology. A 3D printer can print Pokemon. Nothing is more revolutionary than this.
The $200 MP Select Mini is the opposite of open hardware. It is not built for modification. You cannot get spare parts. It is a black box. When it breaks, you can buy another one. You don't own that printer, it owns you. However, I can accept low-end Monoprice printers. This is enough to make people interested in 3D printing, which can print parts for better 3D printers.
I don't know if I can print a better 3D printer with Monoprice Maker Ultimate. This $700 machine can meet almost all your needs for a 3D printer. The print quality of this printer is really very good. The (passive) potential for heating the shell is simply fantastic. No, you will not do dual extrusion. The PTFE tube in the extruder will not allow you to print real exotic plastics, but most people will not print with these plastics anyway.
Compared to any printer you can build yourself, Monoprice Maker Ultimate wins. This is all you need, and with some adjustments, expertise, and perhaps an adapter to solve the fan problem, there is nothing you can't do with this printer. My poor Prusa Mendel cried. The open hardware community should philosophically oppose this printer. This is a true consumer-grade 3D printer. Plug in and turn on the power. After about an hour, you will have some plastic trinkets in your hands. Understanding how 3D printing works, you can use this printer to make some great prints.
This is a very good printer, I think you will not be disappointed.
Should you buy this printer? If you are one of the people who use GIMP instead of pirating Photoshop, no, this is not the right printer for you.
For ordinary people, at a price of $700, this printer is hard to beat. In terms of software, stock firmware can use some help, but all its problems can be fixed through the OLED control panel. Those who write Monoprice manuals and product copies need to spend a few weeks browsing the RepRap forum.
This is a very good printer, and you probably won't use it to replace it. If you are looking for your first 3D printer, you may do worse and spend more money in the process. Its quality is a bit higher than the countless $500 i3 clones I have seen (anyway, you should give Prusa a ring at this price). Monoprice Maker Ultimate is a sturdy printer. Although Monoprice doesn't sell as much as the MP Select Mini, which sells for $200, they have already done their job. Monoprice Maker Ultimate is one of the most valuable 3D printing I have seen, and it should be on the shortlist for anyone planning to buy a printer for less than $1,000.
Regarding the 700 USD Monoprice Maker Ultimate and 800 USD Wanhao Duplicator 6, this is a question that can be done in any way. Judging from the availability of MP Select Mini on Monoprice, I expect their Maker Ultimate will often be out of stock. For those whose patient value is less than $100, this will transfer the balance to Marriott. An impatience fee of $100 can also get you acrylic side panels and top. This is not a bad deal, although I very much hope that US distributors can add the "Duplicator 6" category to their online store.
That's it. For this review, Monoprice provided me with this printer. Negative disclosure, or explaining how this review is not affected by suppliers or companies, is an illegal concept and incompatible with civilized discourse.
Fortunately, the comment section is not always incompatible with civilized discourse.
A huge lie! What the printer does is that the printer jams and takes up your money, time, patience, etc. In fact, when you consider all the suggested improvements, modifications and upgrades, it is overpriced and mechanically flawed. If the newsletter is effective, none of these are needed! 3D printing is definitely not ready for the market. For anyone who tells you this may be their fascination with PRINTER JAMS.
Your comment about 5 weeks ago, I just got this printer, based in part on this comment. I have used it for about 50 hours and it works flawlessly. I am a beginner in this field and have no other problems except for a broken wire. That's it. No jam yet.
Please forgive my ignorance, but I don't quite understand the following: "If you are one of the people who use GIMP instead of pirating Photoshop, no, this is not the right printer for you."
GIMP is open source and free, you can get good things at a low price, because a great community created their own software without money. Pirated photoshop is also free, but you get some good things at a cheap price because you are stealing other people's work.
My guess is that the monoprice printer is essentially a clone, so you can buy it at a cheap price, because monoprice doesn't need to pay anyone to design it, they just "stole" the design. \ GIMP alternative will build a cover
This reads as "This is a printer for those who pirate Photoshop." Pirating Photoshop and buying a $700 printer based on an open source design are two completely different things.
This is just a poorly worded sentence.
GIMP is open source free software, so if you like open source things, you will want an open source printer, and this is not.
It is a Zortax M200 mixed with Ultimaker.
It also looks like a cross between the original ultimaker and ultimaker 2. Somewhere in the middle, not exactly.
It can be said that this printer is almost an exact copy of the Zortrax M200, not a clone of Ultimaker.
This firmware is a direct copy of the Ultimaker2 firmware. I should know that I programmed these menus, but I didn't see any new content there. Turn on the machine, wait until the main menu appears, press and hold the button (make sure no options are selected). You will get a "breakthrough" clone. To be sure, no one will bother to remove the Easter egg when copying the firmware. (It is hidden in the code)
The electronic equipment also looks a lot like Ultimaker2, just rewired and optimized to use fewer components.
So it is just copy and paste. There is really nothing original.
I will test this on Friday...
Send a picture! I would love to know if it is there. @daid303 Will you release Ultimaker 3 soon? I think I read somewhere that there are plans to release the next generation later this year. Hope it will be automatically leveled? ? ? ?
If I say anything, I will break the contract. sorry.
I can tell you that before we released Ultimaker2, it has been a bumpy and high-speed journey. Where is the plan made, changed, changed again, and changed again. The company has grown from 20 to 200 employees. The number of R&D personnel increased from 6 to more than 40. To keep Cura and firmware development going, I was almost exhausted. We made mistakes and tried a lot of things that were ultimately unsuccessful. But we always maintain a clear goal for ourselves. We will not post something unless it is really good.
I know that no matter what we post, people will complain about two things: a) price. b) It will not have the function they want. Because it is always like this :-)
I think so too. Between the original version and the 2 version. There are many such things, but this is the beauty of open source. From the crappy attempt at imitation, we still learned something.
The idea of keeping open source floating with these things becomes very difficult. In terms of firmware, there is a total of 1 actual contributor. https://github.com/tinkergnome Who has made his own hacker-friendly version of UM2 firmware, I can recommend it to anyone who reads this content.
Everyone else is just stealing it. At this point, Ultimaker's internal funding staff began to ask questions. In the case of firmware it is easy, we cannot change the license because we do not own the copyright. But this problem may jump from the firmware to Cura, where the copyright holder is Ultimaker.
Hmm... if anyone is interested, here is mine. https://github.com/norpchen/Ultimaker2Marlin Compared with tinkergnome, I have made more extensive changes, enhancements and experimental features... But I did not initiate any pull requests because a) I deviated from the original code base very wildly from the beginning b) Most of the features I added are only useful for advanced users, and may be ultimaker’s nightmare support, if they integrate they. They want a simple, easy-to-use printer interface that only provides good printing results without many confusing options.
My firmware is made for me—I constantly adjust, fiddle with, and experiment with settings and hardware modules. I suspect this is why since I announced and released it, other people have zero interest in my firmware. The binary hexadecimal file is available, but I don’t think it has been installed on a machine other than my own (this fact makes me reluctant to release public updates*) I’m satisfied with it: I made it because I Want more of my machines. In other words, my GitHub is free to use for picking features, ideas, and code. I believe Tinkergnome said that he picked one or two ideas for him.
Installing experimental company firmware on a UM2 that costs more than $2,500 may be uncomfortable for some people, but maybe people with cheaper clones will be more interested? (It works, and it works well; I have been running it for many years. Of course, it is completely reversible)
This is a video of the firmware for experimental high-speed movement and printing: https://youtube.com/watch?v=-L8scUiasVg (it also shows the "expert" user interface)
*Just writing this article makes me think I want to update today...
Not 2 sounds too idiotic here, but what exactly is "you will get a "breakthrough" clone." What does this mean? I own Monoprice Maker Ultimate, and I really want to change the firmware to add nice things like auto-leveling beds, but I know this will invalidate the existing factory warranty. Can this "breakthrough clone" be the solution? Is it reversible after completion?
Sorry again, if these issues seem to be off topic or under this thread, but just curious if there is another way to get the firmware update without buying a separate board to flash it in.
Check the post at the end of this page via "random-builder" and "Dilbert" for upgrade options.
I don't know anything about Monoprice's firmware policy. That should be in the file you received.
"Maker Ultimate 3D Printer" is really a very original name... SIGH.
Is 0.02 mm height really one of the default settings? Or it should be a typo of 0.2mm. It seems very, very small (and often cumbersome) as the default setting.
A completely unstable repstrap can print a layer height of 0.1 mm, so for a "good" printer, 0.02 sounds reasonable.
As an option, yes, it is a worthwhile choice. By default, this is a bit much.
Not worth it, there is no quality improvement after 0.04, and 0.02 is just marketing. (Sorry. We did this...)
Ha, well, that makes sense. I usually don't go below 0.2mm because I don't like time trade-offs. Anyway, I don't even have the patience to try 0.02.
From the Monoprice website: "Ultra high precision: This 3D printer supports layer resolutions up to 20 microns (0.02 mm), allowing you to produce high-quality prints with smooth surfaces and ultra-fine details."
700 is a bit high for noob printers. For $400, you can play with the printer robot, spend another $75, and extend the y-axis with a heated bed. It does not have the same build area, but unless you do large prints, you really don't need it. But if you are a rookie, you probably shouldn't do this.
Are there any chances to publish your adjusted Cura profile? I have been upgrading from MP Mini for several months, but found that waiting time + various challenges of construction is a very time-consuming way to understand which values to adjust (and sometimes which way to go). It is particularly interesting to see that you can increase the speed so much (on this and on the mini).
I see that the printer has an "OLED control panel". I think you should repeat it in your comment.
"If you are building a printer with a one-meter long build plate (more on this later)"
What does later mean later articles? Or am I missing something?
Very good analysis and writing! I am considering buying a second printer. This provides some very good insights for anyone interested :). Thanks!
I am a little disappointed by the tone of this article about Monoprice Select Mini. The reviews on HaD of the Mini are all about how good its price is and how to modify it cheaply, and this review is all about ignoring the Mini, because it is a toy, you can’t crack it because it’s closed , Therefore, you should spend 4 times the money to buy a bulky-looking printer, the print volume is actually not that big, equipped with a dark age CPU, no WiFi and a monochrome screen. As for Ultimate is "open", it seems to use a mechanism similar to Mini, and neither has any proprietary features (you can easily put Bondtech or Flexystruder and E3Dv6 on any of them, according to your own Like to replace the motor, replace the linear bearing or rod, whatever you want. The only real difference is that Ultimate can run open source firmware? According to Malayan (manufacturing Mini), they will open the Mini firmware in the near future, so that's it.
Besides, this is Hack-a-Day. It can be said that one printer is more suitable for these audiences because it is open source, while the other printer is not suitable because it is more proprietary in the face of "hacker" content. IMHO, improving proprietary equipment is more like a hacker attack than a change to an open source design.
Why are both printers good, but not belittle one for no reason?
And why do you want to belittle the capitalists? They came up with a printer that can be said to be better in some respects (aluminum frame and acrylic frame, 1.75 mm filaments used by almost all other printers, and direct printing of NinjaFlex that should be easier Extruder) and so on (yes, I know 3mm filament and Bowden extruder can theoretically achieve faster printing speed, but that's why I can say)), the price is cheaper. Isn’t it great that industries that serve this hobby not only advance in technology, but also promote the hobby by lowering quality prices and resetting the quality baseline?
In addition, I believe that the firmware of Wanhao Duplicator 6 is already at: https://github.com/garychen99/Duplicator-6-firmware-version-3.1
I agree with this view. I bought an early Up! The printer a few years ago, and then MakerGear appeared, and Up! The community yelled "Copy!!!". However, MakerGear has made some innovations, and today their M2 itself is a high-quality printer.
It seems that this printer has some innovations (including price) compared to Ultimaker. Abandoning Bowden alone is an innovation. I just believe them and wait for the next innovation. It's great that they can do this with old CPUs. Why increase the cost for no reason? This is really innovative.
There is zero innovation here. zero. A clone of a clone, nothing more.
Sappho-Head and Benchy may not be ideal for the test chart that really sees the mechanical quality. I will try to print something very simple, with long sides along the X and Y axis, maybe just a hollow square close to the size of the printing bed. This usually shows better ringing artifacts and oscillations in the mechanism. You have a long stroke along the axis, giving it a chance to reach full speed, and you can more easily see the faults on the corners (circular/overshoot) and long straight sides, and you can see if the extruder can really keep up Push out enough plastic at the maximum printing speed. If you only print "organic" shapes without filling, you may not even see these problems lurking in the printer at all, but if you use straight edges to make more "engineered parts", you will start to see different print quality, It depends on the printer.
It seems that for $700, you'd better choose Prusa MK2.
But those cost $900, and now...
A set of 600 dollars. It only takes 8 hours to build, and it is worthwhile to learn the role of the printer and all the components, whether you pay it or not. After my third return to monopruce, I went with the media and I was very happy.
> $200 MP Select Mini is the opposite of open hardware. It is not built for modification. You cannot get spare parts.
You can replace any stepper, extruder, hot end or controller without too many problems. The only thing that is closed is the controller source code and the flashing tool chain. We should all unite to humiliate malywan and monoprice so that the public can use their illegally pirated smoothies. If they include travel restrictions in the firmware, I won't even get angry, but they won't, because the same controller is used on multiple printers with different physical characteristics.
Is it possible to increase the bed size on the MP Select Mini, at least on the Y axis?
I haven't seen it complete, but I think it is possible because the controller will always move in any direction. You need to design and assemble a new bed frame, possibly with a longer 8mm rod and longer belts, and you also need to extend and/or rearrange the heating bed wiring unless you give up the heating bed function.
Well, this is not a review of MP Select Mini, but a review of Maker Ultimate...
I’m weighing my options because I think it’s time to switch from Di3 v2.1 to PLUS. This article made me realize that Monoprice does not provide spare parts like Wanhao USA... So I went to Wanhao USA’s website and they have one Great sales! I just got my Di3 PLUS and thought I would share this in case anyone else is skeptical about buying one.
This is the sales link:
http://wanhausa.com/pages/2016-labor-day-sale
They now have discounts on almost all printers...worth a try!
Comment TL;DR but you can at least buy motherboards from Monoprice now. The radiator and a few other things have changed. There are people in the FB group. It is the IIRC for 30 USD or 35 USD.
Ha... well, I finally blew up my mini car and planned to buy an open box on Ebay. I blew up the circuit board, so IMHO it's not worth repairing.
I have a problem, the heating plate always heats up-sparks are seen in the spring that generates the pressure. I took it apart and found the copper wire forming the heating pattern under the two rear screws. Therefore, I used nylon gaskets for insulation and added some thermal paste between the heater and the build plate for good measurements. It seems to be going to work again. If the aluminum heating plate artwork is consistent, I won't be the first person to encounter this problem. Burned my fingers several times trying to figure it out.
This is now a known issue and has been recalled.
Before seeing this, I just posted about my question that caused the problem, which was shipped on September 9, 2016. Never received a recall notice. Otherwise the printer works very well.
Obviously, none of the monoprice or wanhao supporters I can contact has heard of any recalls in this regard. Where does your information come from? thanks
Well, I might confuse it with the i3 derivative machine they sell. Monoprice sold their own renamed version of the same machine.
I apologize. However, I recommend checking the bed springs and inserting insulating washers.
http://hackaday.com/2016/09/17/possible-fire-hazard-wanhao-recalls-duplicator-i3-3d-printer/
Thank you, the problem on I3 is similar, but the structure of mononprice/duplicator 6 is different. The spring cannot touch the heating plate. In this case, the screws fixing the hot plate will short-circuit the copper wire of the hot plate directly to the aluminum build plate, thereby shorting the entire printer frame. The holes of the screws on the back are wrongly close to the current-carrying leads, so the screw heads overlap and are separated by a thin layer of paint. Use 24V to produce impressive sparks.... The problem with monoprice is that they do not ship replacement parts. The entire printer must be returned for replacement. This policy will cost them days or weeks of uninterrupted operation costs. Anyway, otherwise I like this printer and the high-quality prints it creates.
One thing that is missed is that Monoprice will charge the shipping cost of the selected item. Taking into account the freight, free shipping of the original Marriott Copier 6 and the shell kit, Marriott only needs a $40 surcharge. It is for this reason that I chose Wanhao on Monoprice. Excellent 3D printer.
I just read through this review and review. I just got my first 3D printer and I am arguing between Monoprice Ultimate (this) and TusHoldings. I and I have not been able to find a comparison between the two, and there are some differences in specifications... I hope that the printer as a tool can minimize the hassle of making parts for other projects, rather than another project to be dealt with. Does anyone have any ideas for a better purchase?
Tom's Hardware said that Qidi is the best printer under $1,000, and it looks really good-dual extruders, self-leveling construction surface, fully enclosed, such as Marriott, etc., the price is the same as the ultimate version. But it also has a resolution of 100 microns, and the print volume is smaller.
Ultimate says that it has a resolution of 20 microns, but if it is a direct copy of Copier 6, why does Marriott's website claim a resolution of 100 microns instead of 20 microns?
It sounds like they mean Z resolution, which is a meaningless number. The problem with this resolution is that you increase the printing time by 5 times, but you will not necessarily get 5 times the quality. Ultimaker used to show off and make 0.02 mm (20 micron) layers, but they made 0.04 mm for extreme quality parts because the time trade-off is not worth it.
Have you tried any Taulman nylon with it? I am very interested in nylon, and I am considering my first printer, but it must have nylon. idea? Will it be alright?
Great article, thanks, I like printers. Confirm that you can change the firmware on Monoprice Duplicator 6 (I am familiar with Arduino and how to operate it).
So far, this is what I have seen, as an option: https://github.com/tinkergnome https://github.com/norpchen https://github.com/garychen99/Duplicator-6-firmware-version -3.1 (via FB Wanhoe group)
...Or use the local Marlin code: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin ... or if you need to restore the factory installation, please use Wanhao: http://www.printer3d.one/forums/topic/ duplicator -6-d6-official-firmwares-list/
Just want to confirm that these are (very likely) safe bets? ? ? Thanks again!
I like this printer very much. Excellent performance in PFA and ABS. PETG is a challenge. The temperature of the hot plate and nozzle appears to be 3-5 degrees Celsius lower than reported. There were a few loose screws when it arrived. A serious problem and warning: During the heating and printing process, I suddenly sparked from the right rear corner of the heating plate under the build platform. The reason is that on my printer, the rear screw holding the heating plate in place is too close to the copper lead in the heating plate. The heads of the screws reach onto the copperware, and one of them touches because they are only separated by a thin layer of paint. Fix it easily with some Teflon washers, and the heating plate is still effective. But check your question.
Mine has been using it for a few weeks, and it hasn't blinked. Much better than the SolidDoodle POS I bought (and sold) last year.
There are still many shortcomings in the documentation provided. It requested to download the software from their website, and they have removed it from their website. After emailing them and getting a response a few days later, they provided a link to the software.
When I plug the included SD drive into my computer, the software is there...more.
The fan in the base started to make a lot of noise, and I suspected that at some point I would have to let them replace it, but other than that, it is bulletproof.
I opened mine to investigate random fan noise. It is easy to find the culprit because the fan at the end of the motherboard is not even plugged in. Thanks to the picture in the comments, I can see where it should be inserted into the motherboard. Leave the fan in the power supply as a source of noise problems. When you get this printer, please check it thoroughly. After 6 weeks of use, the print head cooling fan will also randomly vibrate and make noises. I bought a lot of replacement fans for a few bucks. The absolute maximum temperature shown in the octoprint chart is 250 C. The bed is always 5 C lower than the selected one. Quality control is definitely a matter of Marriott/unit price. But the printing effect is very good, so I think this is more like assembly of parts at a reasonable price as the starting point for my modification.
Do you mind sharing your fan source? receive anything? thank you very much! !
I got the cheapest one I found. eBay store yf-cn 24V 40mm x 40mm x 10mm 4010 DC brushless cooling fan with 2 pin 2.54 connector brand new 4 dollars, shipping cost 10.36 dollars. They are noisier than the original ones, but so far they are sturdy.
Recently (this week) I picked up a photocopier 6! So far so good-I haven't used a 3D printer since school (engineering), and I'm up and running soon!
I noticed that the default printing speed and settings on the wanhao/cura software look very slow/weird... I have used cura on windows and Linux, and the settings seem to be very different, depending on the operating system I use (and very strangeness). I might report some bigger differences...
In any case, what I am trying to get here is that I believe the potential of this printer is much greater than the slicer software settings. (Similar to the author's emphasis on acceleration of 800mm/s and 3000mm/s)
Can someone (author?) recommend some basic/advanced Kura settings for this printer for use in pla/abs/petg/nylon/etc to move in the right direction? (As a 3D printer rookie)
The printer may be able to move quickly, but this is not very important. The speed largely depends on the material you print. Compared with ABS, PLA with cooling function can be completed at a higher speed. For PETG, I have to slow down. In any case, I will use each material for test printing around the recommended settings. There are a large number of calibration files on thingiverse. Each printer is slightly different, and the temperature displayed is rarely accurate. Print size is also very important, such as cooling time between layers, material viscosity, nozzle size, etc.
Don't mix with eBay fans. Buy a real ball bearing fan at Jameco P/N: 2167605...only $10... (I have the same chattering sound as a cheap sleeve fan)...
Of course, I will try the next 0.09 A instead of 0.1A. But that was $40 4 plus shipping, and I need to replace it with a dual fan cover. I bet they are also buying in Shenzhen.
Monoprice Ultimate is currently sold on Monoprice.com (not Amazon or other places I checked) for $600, which is $100 lower than the standard list. Eat it while it's hot...
Good reviews for this printer... My one arrived a few days ago and I am very happy so far.
For anyone who gets this far in the comments, I want to reiterate the importance of checking all bolts and height limiter screws, because many have become very loose (including all 4 nuts/bolts on the z-axis bearing!). Failure to check these may [I suspect] will cause major problems with print quality, and if you are not careful, you may even cause serious damage.
For the spool holder, as the commenter pointed out, it is small. The PLA MP reel I ordered with the printer cannot even be installed. So far, here are two links to printable STL files to get a more appropriately sized version (I didn't use bearings, and it worked very well). With bearing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1792043 Without bearing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1533132
Also check for potential short circuits on the screws holding the heating plate in place. The screw may overlap the copper wire. My internal cooling fan is unplugged, and there is no heat sink on the microchip to control the current of the extruder and other motors, as shown in the controller picture in the comments. They are really hot because they have 1.25A output. Due to insufficient extrusion, large prints on PETG at 250°C always fail after a period of time. I suspect that the current regulating resistors close to these chips are getting hot, and as their resistance increases, the current is regulated down. Keeping the bottom open and adding a heat sink significantly improves this. I think this problem is well explained here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/5542-comedoone-for-ultimaker2.
Does anyone know how to connect a white filament tube with 10 black clips? I assume that these were added with the printer after the production instructions before they started. Could not find any content of this printer or copier 6 on the Internet. thanks.
You need to print a guide like this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1645945
It doesn't matter, they are rubber feet to prevent scratching your desk or table. I do want to say that since I excluded the initial wasteful post after I was still, I was impressed by the uninterrupted English quality and readable instructions before printing. This forum is why I finally decided which printer to buy. I was able to buy it at a unit price of $600, and only waited about a week for delivery. I hope that my thoughts will not change after I start printing, but I have high hopes. Thanks to everyone who helped me with experience and expertise. I think this is a very good decision.
have fun. Suitable for ABS and PLA. For PETG, I switched to the miniature Swiss hot end and cooling block of copier 6 (https://store.micro-swiss.com). Finally, I can print larger PETG objects. The out-of-the-box printer is suitable for small PETG objects such as PI boxes, but nothing more. Before switching back to ABS or PLA, everything must be disassembled and cleaned. I can also (slowly) print Ninja flex now. Of course it needs to be considered.
It failed miserably on larger ninjaflex prints. The most flexible material I can print is NinjaTek Cheetah. Thought I added this.
Thank you for pointing out that those black "clips" are rubber feet! I also think they should connect the filament tube in some way because they are in the same bag. There is another short tube, similar to the filament tube, but only about 2 inches long-know what this is for? For users who use 3D printers for the first time, some of these accessories are not so obvious.
Thanks to Delbert for sharing these two ideas. Okay, I have finished my 4th print, here are 2 LEGO light switch boards for my kids. After completion, the screen shows that there are 37 hours left to print and it is frozen. The dial did nothing, so I turned off the switch. When I turned the switch back on. The LED light flashes briefly, the fan turns on, but there is nothing on the screen. The dial will beep as if there is something to work, but there is nothing on the screen. A little discouraged because I am very satisfied with the other 3 prints and the seemingly great quality of this printer. I have sent a support request to monoprice, but I am curious if this is a common problem and what it might be. Thanks to anyone who has any thoughts on this.
Mine also crashes frequently, the timer seems to be stuck, but it always finishes printing. Then I turned it off and on to restore it. I first check the cable. I often knock the cable connecting the print head loose and get error messages and noise. Look under the printer (unplug first) and check the cables. Annoyingly, monoprice does not send parts, they only replace the entire printer. Finally I will update/replace the firmware. They are just running the ultimaker firmware, and nothing has changed except the start screen, so maybe those support forums can help or directly wanhao, they helped me solve the problem twice before because monoprice basically has no support other than the release of RMA.
I switched to Marlin copier 6. There is no problem.
Good discussion here. I received my device yesterday, but I cannot move the z-axis. Tried the leveling procedure, but when it asked me to move the bed up, it did not move. If I turn the screw with my hand, I can feel the motor hitting me, but the controller or knob does not feel anything. Spent some time on customer support, but no luck. An RMA will send it back. Try to ask Wanhao, but they just let me go back to Monoprice. It is estimated that it will take a while to play.
Thanks again for Dilbert's help. Everything seems to be closely connected, but it still won't close. I even bought a new line to see if this is the case (because I saw other people solve their problems.) It didn't work. The next test will be to see how helpful monoprice will be. Thanks again.
The parts of these printers are really complicated!
I am still using mine, but they have destroyed the two BuildTaks they provided for the hotbed. Neither Wanhao nor Monoprice sell cushions, so I have to buy replacement parts from Amazon and trim them to fit.
Consider a PEI (polyetherimide) sheet, opaque off-white, standard tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03 inch thickness. Paste it with 3M 468MP adhesive transfer tape. The performance is very good. When the heating plate cools down, the print will be ejected immediately.
I'm pretty sure that the moonrise table is just renamed BuildTak
My new printer came today, and now I am worried that they have another problem. Every time I go to close it, it will click, the green light will flash, and any click will flash. Any ideas?
Sorry, but never noticed the green light on this printer?
It is located on the electronic device under the printer. When it lights up, you can see it through the vents.
Mine flashes red but no green when printing. Please also check the ultimaker forum, because the motherboard is very similar to the motherboard, minus some parts required to run dual extruders, etc.
I have been printing with mine for about a week, and now the built board is stuck. The motor is moving, but not rotating to raise/lower the build plate. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Also check the connection on the motherboard (unplug the plug before opening). Is the z axis moving? Maybe just one screw needs to be tightened.
Of course, I don’t expect you to respond to this comment Brian Benchoff, but I want to know if you have found a really good extruder fan redirector during your time with Maker Ultimate?
Well, I’m not Brian, but I’m working hard to improve this. The main problem with improving the cooling of the printing filament is that increasing the airflow also reduces the temperature of the nozzle, which immediately causes heater errors. Therefore, first I added a silicon shoe to the heating block (I used Smooth-on Moldmax 60), which can stabilize the temperature well and prevent cooling by increasing airflow. I can increase the airflow from the dual fan cover. I'm trying more single blower designs, but I haven't seen improvement so far. In any case, the silicon insulation of the hot end alone has been significantly improved.
Okay, try this. All the airflow you need. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2235389
One question I want to answer is why this printer is equipped with an SD-only card reader-SD cards (not SDHC or SDXC) are difficult to obtain in the 2017 SF Bar Area (including Silicon Valley...). Why is this obsolete technology included in the printer, and how soon can the card reader be replaced by SDHC (or XC)?
Monoprice is getting desperate? (I placed the order on 2017-05-19): 1) First check the price: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15710 $699.99 2) Register now, put it in the shopping cart, and wait for 3 days. "Only for you" they will be "discounted" at a price of 549.99 US dollars 3) Finally, withdraw from monoprice, the price returns to 699.99 US dollars
I don't know why they are so desperate, this is a very good printer, especially in terms of price. The only problem I have seen is that it does not bridge well or overhangs over 25 degrees, and it is not well supported. However, if you can find and print a new blower guide (part of the fan that cools the print) and can choose to make silicone socks, it will solve these problems to a certain extent.
I spent 599 in January, which is their standard price. After I had to send my third printer back to them, I took my money back and took the prusa i3 mk2s. The problem is that to make it a good printer, you have to upgrade all parts, because all Chinese parts are cheap.
Brock: Do you mind sharing more? Why are three printers? Which cheap part? Thank you.
I printed 4 sheets for the first one. After trying to turn it on for the fifth time, the LED light flashed and the LCD screen did not light up. Rma then got my second one.
When you turn it on, there will be 6 flashing green lights from below immediately. After printing 3 to 4 times, it cannot be opened. I even bought a new power cord to see if it was it, it was not. When I called to ask that question, I was told that they had never heard of it before. Rma then got my third.
After printing less than 10 times, the LED will light up, but the LCD screen will freeze again. Since there were no more printers available in March, monoprice tried to provide me with store credit for other products, but hardly received a refund. I complained that I needed money to buy the printer and got a refund.
Don't get me wrong, it prints well when it works, but in my experience, it is far from reliable. Not only the monoprice version, but wanhao d6 (I believe this is the version monoprice uses as their "ultimake", because the bottom of the audio board still has their names, and the components on the motherboard also have their names) have the same problem.
Find wanhao d6 on facebook and read all the questions there.
Wow, this is some really bad printer karma :-) Well, I have already ordered, if my fate is better, I will report back.
I have opened and closed about 20 times, and so far, I have printed 7½ copies-no issues of the type mentioned. (So far...) The only problem I have encountered is that the nozzle is clogged at the 8th print, running PETG from a reel that has never been tried... (hence the "½" above...)
doom. Well, mine is almost 10 months old, little problem. Upgrade to miniature Swiss hot end, silicone cover, 50 cm blower cooling, flexible filament drive block and servo damper. Most upgrades are on thingiverse. After spending about $150 on the upgrade, it is still theft. Now PETG, ABS, PLA, Ninjaflex, etc. can be printed perfectly and silently.
Forget about the proximity sensor and filament end switch that Marlin enabled for copier 6.
1) There is also a firmware based on Marlin (not based on Ultimaker2Marlin): https://github.com/dot-bob/Marlin-Duplicator-6
2) And the RFE supported by the original Marlin for Monoprice Ultimate / Wanhao Duplicator-6: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6818 Please vote your "+1" comment on the github ticket, just in case One this is a good idea
3) By the way, can anyone familiar with history clarify: What is the really important difference: Marlin vs Ultimaker2Marlin? Beyond: 7,681 commits / 303 contributors, 1,324 commits / 85 contributors?
I use Marlin for duplcator 6 to enable the proximity sensor automatic bed leveling and filament end switch, which allows the filament to be replaced and continue from where it left off. Proximity sensors make such a big difference in usability and convenience.
I have released my one-year upgrade history for everyone who is interested in purchasing this printer. http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/wanhao-d6-upgrades
Anyone want to comment on how this printer compares to existing products in 2019? I am considering buying an out-of-the-box version (it seems very cheap!) for $300.
I have two, and I bought the third for only $300!
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